Oban

The walk around Stewart Island was great, although my body is starting to feel the 10 days of packing that I've done without much of a break. Last night I had the campsite to myself, although there were plenty of loud birds to keep my company. They must have been big birds too because I could hear them stomping through the bushes and pecking at my trash. I also heard quite a few tuis, which sound a lot like R2-D2 (they actually have multiple voice boxes I think). The walk was definitely worthwhile, and I saw lots of birds (but no kiwi). Today I walked back into town and am treating myself to a room in the hotel (although it's really more like a backpackers with shared bathrooms and the like). The weather is deteriorating rapidly and the outlook for the next few days looks bad. I'm booked to catch the 8:00AM ferry out of here tomorrow, but if the weather is too bad I don't think it will run, and if it does, I can expect an even bumpier ride than that which I experienced coming here. Assuming I make it off the island tomorrow, I'll head back up to Queenstown, though I'll have little to do there as well for the next few days because the weather doesn't look like it's going to clear up soon.

-Brian

February 18, Maori Beach
It was nice to be able to sleep in today, not have to wake up for anything, and take the day at my own pace.

After grabbing a coffee in town, I hit the trail and walked about 3.5 hours, arriving here at Maori beach by mid-afternoon. I've decided to spend the night here because it isn't next to the hut and I can still do the entire track in 3 days from here.

The beaches of Stewart Island are quiet, remote, and have a slow, peaceful feeling about them. This area sees few visitors - although I did manage to run into someone I met at the train station in Arthur's Pass (that was about 2 weeks ago!).

The weather cleared completely this afternoon, and, with the sun shining, it became pleasantly warm here - a nice break from the cold weather we've been having.

There are few people here, but I did meet a Swiss guy and there are two people here I met at the backpackers' last night - it's a very small world here on Stewart Island.

February 19, Sawdust Bay
Last night I met a friendly French girl and two kiwis who were good fun. We had a campfire and shared a few laughs.

Things are much less hospitable on this side of the island; the wind blows strongly and there isn't much of a beach (it's really more like a mud flat). The rainwater tap here at the campsite is dry and the only nearby freshwater is about a 40 minute return walk (at least I brought my filter).

The walk today was hilly and extremely muddy, although it was really quite nice. There are few people here and the birdlife is really active. At times the mud was almost a foot deep, but in most places they've installed boardwalks.

It looks like I will have the camp to myself tonight, although a young couple from the Czech Republic did stop by for a while. They really only talked to each other, and I think they were speaking about as fast as anyone I've ever heard before.